Phillips is Haute Cuisine

Phillips is BBQ on a scale only rivaled by JR's in this, our fair city of Los Angeles. LA has never been known for, well, really any food, except expensive tiny portions of sushi or Mexican.

Journey south on Crenshaw from the 10 and you find yourself in the heart of a thriving community that has some of the best food in the whole city. Very few soul food restaurants exist north of 10, but there is a seemingly endless strip of hearty soul food joints stretching as far south as you can see.

Phillips has three locations, one on Leimert, one on La Cienega in Inglewood and the latest installment is on Crenshaw, just a few blocks south of 10. Don't worry if you don't see the sign, you'll smell it from a half a block away.

It is a wall of smoke. A range of smoke. A fierce apparition wreaking delicious havoc across the street. Put your fog lights on.

There is only a stand up shelf outside to eat, or a small park bench. Nobody eats here but me. If you know soul food you already have the menu seared in your cerebrum. In case you've forgotten I'll spell it out for you. Ribs, rib tips, pulled pork, beef brisket, hot links, 7-Up cake, peach cobbler, sweet potato pie, and the ubiquitous badge of soul food: a sandwich bag with two slices of white bread, wrapped in a napkin with a fork jammed in there.

Their hot sauce is hot. JR's has a slightly sweeter nose, but Philips is a raw, smoky slow burn that you always order on the side. No, it's not a tradition. If you don't ask for sauce on the side, all soul food restaurants will slather the entirety of the meat with sauce. You do not want to mask the flavor, get it on the side and dip the meat in it. Try the meat naked, there is a deep smoke flavor to everything.

The hot links have an amazing spice mixture. Differing from JR's short cut char, these are more lengthy strips of meat with a pop of skin on the outside. Don't misunderstand me, I love JR's char.

So, who is better? Flip a coin. JR's has personality and hominess, with a true family feel. Phillips is all attitude, with no predilection towards fellowship or invitation. Just straight up, two-fisted BBQ, and that counts for a lot.