Sunday, September 17, 2006

An Evening With Anheuser Busch

* WARNING * WARNING * WARNING*
****THIS MEAL WAS COMPED****

Why on earth Anheuser Bush doesn't market some of its experimental, gift pack, and microbrew beers is beyond me. Well, I do know the answer to that, The King of Beers is exactly that, the largest brewer of beer in the world. No doubt Budweiser and Busch has a huge stadium and NASCAR following. Regular Budweiser isn't my favorite, although their Light is OK. Obviously, their standard beer has widespread appeal, so why mess with that? You sell more Volkswagons than Ferraris.



Nevertheless Budweiser does, admittedly, have a 'standard American beer taste' which is a polite way of saying its light on flavor. In fact, I'm a big Tecate fan for everyday drinking, so that's not too far off the mark when you want to grab a quick, cold brew on a hot day. Whereas I roll with a beer snob crowd, the fact is the average guy just wants to get loaded on something drinkable and refreshing.

So, when a rep from Anheuser Busch contacted me about a beer and cheese pairing, I was a tad skeptical, but all over it like white on rice...which is an ingredient in Budweiser.

The event was held at the sleek Mondrian on Sunset Strip, so they knew how to throw a party in style. Let's face it, AB has plenty of money to throw around, and lucky for us! We were the first ones to arrive in a penthouse room that was set up with a banquet table full of beer and cheese.

So, while we were waiting for other food writers to arrive, we chatted with George Reisch , Jaques Haeringer, and Javier I Don't Know His Last Name. George and Javier are brewmasters, and Jaques turned out to be chef-owner of a restaurant we've eaten at many times, Washington DC-renowned L'Auberge Chez Francois, so it was a real cool coincidence to meet him.



George is what I would call a Beer Evangelist, so I can respect this guy. The tasting centered around five beers and five cheeses, with several accompaniments to make sure we didn't get too tanked. George led the evening with his passionate talk about beer and tasting beer, and while he represents AB, he clearly showed a passion for all beer.



Jaques positioned himself a the head of the table, which is his rightful place because he makes a great master of ceremonies. Quite a character, and very interesting to talk to.

So, that sets up the scene. There were about five couples who showed up, connecting to LA foodwriting in some fashion or another. I'll impart to you what I learned about tasting beer, because there is a technique brewmasters use.

Each beer came with a different style glass to reflects its particular flavor characteristic. You pour the beer into the middle of the glass to produce a head, he explained, because bottled beer has a higher carbon dioxide concentration than keg beer. This allows for the release of some of the gas, so you don't feel bloated while drinking. The prefered temperature to serve is between 40 and 50 degrees.

Fill the glass halfway, then tilt the glass at a 90 degree angle and roll. This helps dissipate the head a bit. Of course I got rambunctious and filled my glass all the way, cause I likes drinkin'. You sniff the glass, then take a drink, allowing it to roll over the tongue before swallowing. This allows you to enjoy the sweet notes on the tip of the tongue, then the bitter toward the end. Made sense to me!

Our first pairing was a Mt. Tam Triple Creme from Cowgirl Creamery and a Michelob Light. Yeah, I know, I was less than enthusiastic about this beer, but it actually was a good contrast to the mushroomy-creaminess of the Mt. Tam. Still. Michelob is not my usual preference, but in context it went well with the cheese. Well, the cheese enhanced the flavor of the Michelob.

Ok, onto round two. Now, I'm encapsulating this since there was much discussion, banter and nibbling between tastes. Jaques would regale us with some recipes and his energetic philosophy, and we'd hit them with questions. My first, pointed question to Javier has been dogging me since I started drinking.

Why rice?

Succinctly, Javier said during WWII there was a shortage of grain, so AB decided to use rice in its brewing process, and they’ve continued with it. I’m not a Budweiser enthusiast, so I’m not sure if the rice contributes to that or not, but he did say it has a very neutral flavor. That’s cool, they sell plenty of it, so it must work for some. As I said, my favorite everyday beer is Tecate.



Now for some craft beers. The next one was Harbin paired with Camembert, and this was a great combination. Harbin is a beer they market in China, and I have to say it holds it own against Tsing Tao. Harbin was an independent Chinese brewery that was purchased in 2004 by Anheuser Busch. I never had Harbin before, so I don’t know if there is a difference in flavor, but I imagine AB doesn’t mess with a good thing.

It was light, drinkable, and had the good Asian bite you find in many beers from that part of the world. The flavor of the Harbin cut the rich saltiness of the Camembert, which, by itself, would be a very rich flavor.

Next up, Stone Mill Pale Ale paired with Old Sport Cheddar. This is my new favorite cheese, I can tell you that. The pale ale had a hearty richness and mild sweetness. It is also certified organic, which is a good selling point for many people. I personally don’t care, I just like flavor. It had a nice hoppy flavor with overtones of caramel. Nothing too strong, certainly not as bold as Red Hook.

Now, the cheddar was a sharp kick in the teeth with nice grain and distributed salt crystals. It could almost be described as a premature parmesan. Not hard like parmesan, but it had a nice acrid bite that I love. By not being an overpowering beer, the pale ale was a nice contrast and good mellowing agent.



For the fourth tasting, we had a Jack’s Pumpkin Spice paired with a Wensleydale Cranberry. While I wasn’t a fan of the cheese, they did go well together. The beer was sweet without being overpowering, and the spices were mildly complex. I don’t think you could drink more than one or two, however, since it is a flavored beer and tends to get heavy after a few. Still, it was milder than many other seasonal or celebratory beers I’ve had, like Sierra Nevada Christmas Ale, which tastes like they threw a pine tree into the vat.

The last beer was my favorite, Michelob Porter. I notice the last year or so they’ve used the Michelob label to release some special brews, and this was a good one. It was paired with Oregonzola, which is a gorgonzola blue. This combination was a winner. The beer was chocolaty and smoky -very smoky- with a nice creamy head. It played off the bleu well, with the sharpness of the gorgonzola picking up the wave of smokiness.

So, you might have thought we got tanked by the end of the evening. Not really, we didn’t polish off all the beer (I know, that’s a foul in most households), and there was plenty of other food to absorb what we drank. It also lasted a little over three hours.

There was plenty of chatter and lots of information. One interesting note is that AB has refrigerators full of other beers from around the world, so that brewmasters can not only enjoy them, but come up with some new flavors. Clearly, most of these don’t reach market, AB is not known for its microbrew or craft beers, they stick with their core competency. I have to say, I was impressed with their array of flavors, but as George said, they have all the resources and expertise in the world, so naturally they could produce any beer they want to. Yeah, I hadn’t thought about that, you assume a company makes one particular kind of beer, they might be myopic, but the decision to only market drinkable lagers is based on money. Craft brews simply wouldn’t be as large of a profit center, which makes sense.

This wasn’t only selling Anheuser Busch products to food writers, although I just wrote a lengthy article about it, Jaques really did a good job throwing out recipes and pairing the flavors. Most of the brews I talked about will only be released as part of a gift pack, so its not like they’re preparing the public for a slew of new flavors.

Well, there you go. As I said, this was a free meal and free booze, so interpret that any way you want to. I’m not a fan of their regular beers except Bud Light, frankly the American default I go with is Miller because of its flavor characteristics, but AB does a fine job with producing alternate flavors. As I said, I really don’t drink American beers, except for some microbrews, so I go with Mexican for my everyday beer.



One last thing, they had a pile of hops on the table for us to check out. Hops, if you didn’t know, are in the same family Cannabacae, which includes marijuana. Yeah, I’ve smoked pot before, so there’s no need to freak out, but splitting open a hop smells exactly like marijuana. No, you can’t smoke them, but it was an interesting similarity I wasn’t prepared for. Ok, I tried to smoke one, but I just got drunk off it.

6 Comments:

  • Some of those Bud "premiums" are really good. They marketed their Stout and some of the other craft brews here in Wisconsin and really downplayed the association with Bud, since we are a Miller town. The stout was bold and full of flavor...and surprisingly strong.

    By Blogger Jeff, at 6:25 AM  

  • Nice writeup, Steve ! Having worked for several days at the AB facility in lovely Van Nuys as a cotractor, I can confirm that they can pretty much brew anything they want, and as much of it as they want, but they obviuosly know their market.

    The brewery is immense, and the word immense really doesn't do it justice. They have a number of very large buildings that are called "lagering cellars" (lager is the german word for store and lager is also the broad category for the type of beer that AB brews, as opposed to Ales). Anyway each of these lagering cellars is actually not a cellar at all but rather a building with multiple floors (like 5 or 6 at least), each holding hundreds of tanks with thousands of gallons capacity, where the beer is fermented and then stored before bottling. So, we're talkin' a mind-boggling amount of beer, which goes out in box cars, every day. One of the other contractors, who'd been there for years (they're constantly expanding/demo'ing etc) said to me "you can pretty much do whatever you want in here, as long as you don't delay the loading and departure of those box cars" :-)

    Mike G.

    By Anonymous Anonymous, at 12:23 PM  

  • Yeah, I've passed the brewery lots of times, and you can definitely tell when you're within 5 miles of one. The hoppy wort smells great. There is also the Miller brewery off the 210 as you're going to the 15...on the way to Vegas, baby!

    Jeff, was that the same stout I had? It has an incredibly smoky flavor, I was very shocked. I did see Hardin at the local BevMo, and there is no indication of it being Anheuser Busch except the importers are located in St. Louis. Not a dead giveaway, though. AB likely owns even more breweries we're not aware of. I wouldn't be surprised if many microbrewries are owned by them.

    By Blogger Steve Wasser, at 9:17 PM  

  • MMmmmmmmmichelob Porter. I'm liking the sound of it. I'm really not a big beer guy. I usually do Whiskey or Vodka 'cause honestly, I drink when I'm going out to have fun, not so much to feel bloated. And I don't enjoy hitting the boy's room and then discovering I have to pee even before my fly zipper is hiked back up to home base. However, when I do occasionally enjoy beer I like something with body and flavor--like Guinness. I'm open to new beer and might give it a sniff.

    By Blogger Acme Instant Food, at 9:33 PM  

  • I also forgot to mention they started us off with a Hefeweizen before the official tasting. I'm now on a Hefeweizen kick, and I think they did a damn fine job on that one. It would have been interesting pairing that with some food.

    Acme, I hear where you're coming from. I have sipping beers and guzzling beers, sometimes they overlap. If you like Guiness you'll definitely like the Porter, they may even release it just like Celebrator last year.

    Jeff, I just realized you said stout and not porter. I really hope they release the porter, it kicks ass.

    What's funny, is when I was in college, I had to memorize the Budweiser label...I should have asked if any of the brewmasters could recite it.

    By Blogger Steve Wasser, at 12:59 PM  

  • Hi Again Steve !

    I just listened to the podcast on this (I'm usually a couple of weeks behind), and wanted to confirm for you that yes, a pilsner is in the lager family of beer styles. Pilsner gets it's name because it comes from the city of Plzen, in what was then Bohemia (now Czechoslovakia). The Pilsner considered by many to be the best example of the style is Pilsner Urquel, and it is indeed a very fine beer, you should try it if you haven't already! General characteristics of the pilsner style include a brilliant, crystal clear golden color, light to medium body and a refreshing, crisp flavor.

    Both Coors and Budweiser are in the pilsner style, as are many of the other most popular beers such as Miller Beer, Corona, Tecate etc.

    Another bit of trivia - long before Anheuser Busch began brewing Budweiser here in the U.S., there was another Budweiser, brewed in Czechoslovakia and called Budweiser Budvar:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Budweiser_Budvar

    Whereas "our" Bud is marketed as the "King of Beers", the other Bud had long before been known as the "Beer of Kings".

    As the Wikipedia article says, it's available here in North America, labeled as Chechvar.

    Cheers !
    Mike G.

    By Anonymous Anonymous, at 4:40 PM  

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